What sets chart-topping hits apart from songs that get lost in the shuffle? Recording quality. A well-recorded track can take a song to the next level, while a poorly-recorded one can sink it. Great recordings pave the way for effortless mixing and mastering. As the saying goes: 'garbage in, garbage out'—no matter how skilled the mix engineer or how high-end their mixing console, a low-quality recording will never sound as good as a recording that was done right from the get-go.
With remote collaboration on the rise, maintaining consistent recording quality across a variety of musicians' home studios has proven difficult. But this doesn't have to be the case. With the right knowledge, proper gear, and a bit of experimentation in their home studio, anyone can get solid, usable recordings from home. In this blog post, we'll share tips on achieving high-quality home recordings, covering electric and acoustic guitar, electric bass, synthesizer, strings, brass, woodwinds, acoustic piano, and E-piano. On top of the more basic measures like room treatment, we will also discuss specifics like mic placement, gain staging, signal flow, and more.
So grab your favorite beverage, pop some popcorn, and let's get into it! Click on the Instrument icons on the bottom right to jump to each section.
Heads Up: This is just a quick-reference guide to help you start recording your instrument from home. The internet is a treasure trove of free resources filled with tips on mic placement, studio setup, instrumentation, and more! You just have to know where to look. Check out our Site Resources for a list of our favorite links for learning about music, covering everything from music industry trends to gear reviews to music theory. If you have a specific recording-related question, you can perform a sitewide search through our blogs, help articles, and tools for answers. There are also links to a bunch of free music tools and plugins for you to explore. If all else fails, and you aren't able to find the info you're looking for, your best bet is to check YouTube for an answer from an expert.
In the realm of in-the-box music production, the guitar stands out as a unicorn. Its unique tones and nuances are notoriously difficult to replicate with virtual instruments. For this reason, live-recorded guitars are essential for a professionally-produced sound. These guitars would ideally be recorded in a professional recording studio with a session musician supervised by an engineer. Though, for many music makers, this is out of reach. Due to the high cost of studio time and engineers' salaries, music makers are left with two options if they want to add live-recorded guitars to their tracks: use samples, or record themselves or their friends from home. If you're a music producer or artist, learning to record your guitar from home opens up a world of creative possibilities for your music. Instead of relying on the same overused samples as other producers and artists, you'll be able to add your own custom licks to your tracks. If you're a musician looking to drum up more session work, learning to record guitar from home grants you access to an invaluable income stream—remote gigs.
This section will walk through the basics for recording acoustic, electric, and bass guitar from your home studio. With the right gear, proper routing, and careful gain staging, anyone can achieve a pro-recorded sound from home.
Recording acoustic guitars can be both an art and a science. Acoustic guitars have a wide dynamic range, ranging from delicate fingerpicking to powerful strumming. This requires careful microphone placement and gain staging to capture both subtle nuances and powerful performances without distortion or clipping.
The acoustic properties of the recording space can significantly affect the sound of the acoustic guitar. If possible, it's best to record acoustic guitars in a moderately sized room with controlled acoustics. Acoustic guitars sound best when their sound has space to develop, so it's ideal to place your mics at a distance in a room with rich, natural reverb.
But watch out! Rooms with poor acoustics, such as those with too much reverb, standing waves, or flutter echoes, can muddy the sound and make it challenging to capture a clean recording. If you're recording from home, it's unlikely that your room is professionally treated. In this case, you should start from closer mic distances and play louder to minimize background noise and room reverb. Although, make sure you experiment with further mic positions and different recording locations before you default to close-miking—your room might sound better than you think, even if it's untreated.
Make sure you record in the center of the room and avoid any walls or corners, which can cause unwanted reflections. You can also use a few different tricks to subtly treat your room without making any big investments in your home studio. Adding heavy furniture and blankets, bookshelves full of books, and homemade Rockwool acoustic panels will all help control room reflections.
Whether you record in mono or stereo, or use a preamp, EQ, or compressor in front of your audio interface, your signal chain will generally follow the same basic setup. You'll record your acoustic guitar with one or more microphones, which will then run into a preamplifier that will be used to amplify the signal to line level (around -12dB to -6dB). Then, the signal will run through the A/D (Analog to Digital) converters on your audio interface and into your DAW for recording.
In the majority of cases, the most simple, flexible, and cost-effective route is to plug your microphones into the XLR inputs on your audio interface and use the built-in preamp to boost the signal. This will result in a clean, uncolored recording that can be processed later by the producer or mixing engineer. By shortening the signal chain, there are fewer chances that something will go wrong during setup.
If you feel confident with your 'knob-turning' skills, you can make some basic adjustments with EQ and tighten up the dynamics with compression on the way in to the audio interface, after the signal has been amplified by the preamp. If you choose to add both EQ and compression, try experimenting with their order in the signal chain to see what sounds best before you start recording. Keep in mind that any effects added to your recording chain will be permanent. If you, the producer, or the engineer need to make any adjustments, or the recording comes out over-compressed or over-EQ'd, you'll have to record another take. So, if you do plan on inserting a compressor or EQ into your chain, make sure to keep the processing minimal.
When working collaboratively, the best practice is to send in a raw recording without any compression or EQ applied on the way in. This will give the producer and mixing engineer the flexibility to apply their own processing and blend the guitar into the song.
Even if you have a high-end vintage EQ or compressor, don't give in to the temptation to add it to all your recordings. No matter how great it sounds on the recording when auditioned individually, once it's added to the mix, there's a high likelihood that the analog coloration imparted by the hardware won't fit in. So unless requested otherwise, it's best to skip any external preamps, EQs, or compressors, and instead plug your mic directly into your audio interface and amplify the signal with the built-in clean preamp.
In terms of mic setup, there are a few different options you can pick between depending on your preferences and project specifications:
The most basic setup for recording acoustic guitar is in mono with a single cardioid condenser microphone. Small diaphragm condensers are particularly popular for the task due to their ability to capture precise details and accurately represent the guitar's sound, although large diaphragms can also work well, offering a richer and more expressive tone. Dynamic mics can work, too, especially for particularly loud players, but condensers are generally preferred for their sensitivity and ability to capture the guitar's delicate high-frequency content.
Most microphones perform best at a moderate distance, and acoustic instruments need some space for their full sound to develop. Still, if your recording space is untreated and prone to issues or heavy reverb, you should try to keep the mic as close to the guitar as possible without causing the proximity effect to arise. Although placing the microphone directly in front of the sound hole might seem like a good idea, it often causes low-frequency rumble and overload. A recommended starting point is to place the microphone about 6–9 inches out and up from the guitar, pointing where the fretboard meets the body. This position provides a good balance between capturing the sound of the strings and the body of the guitar. For a more detailed and focused sound, you can place the microphone closer to the guitar, aiming it towards the 12th fret. This will capture more of the highs and accentuate the pick attack and finger noises. From here, you can experiment by angling the microphone towards the sound hole to produce more midrange and low-end power. You can also try recording closer to the guitar's body, below the bridge, for more mids and bass.
In many cases, recording acoustic guitar in stereo is ideal because it mimics the natural way listeners perceive sound in a live setting. Human ears hear in stereo, allowing us to perceive spatial characteristics and directionality. When a sound typically heard in stereo, such as an acoustic instrument, is recorded in mono, it can disrupt the illusion of space in a mix. Mono recordings emit from a single point in the stereo field, making their sound feel flat and less immersive. This lack of spatial information can make it obvious that the sound is not naturally filling the space, diminishing the mix's depth and realism. On top of that, even if you add a reverb and stereo-doubling plugin to your mono recording, the true stereo effect is impossible to replicate in-the-box.
This is why stereo recordings are especially important for acoustic instruments. They make the listening experience more lifelike and engaging. They capture not only the direct sound from the instrument but also the room's natural reverb and ambience.
The same advice around diaphragm size and dynamic mics from the section above applies here. Large diaphragms typically deliver a more expressive tone, while small diaphragms tend to offer a more accurate representation of the guitar's sound. Dynamics are less sensitive than condensers and generally not as well-suited for capturing the delicate high-frequency content of acoustic guitars.
The ideal mic placement allows enough space for the sound of the guitar to develop. With stereo recording, this space has an even greater impact. It allows early reflections to reach the microphones at slightly different times than the initial sound from the guitar, creating a sense of depth and spaciousness and accurately simulating a live guitar sound.
This being said, sometimes the space you're recording in is less than ideal (and for certain styles of music, you don't really want to capture the sound of the room). Since this blog is focused on home recording, and many home studios lack acoustic treatment and soundproofing, we'll run through a couple of the most popular setups for close-miking your guitar in stereo.
Spaced Pair (A/B) Mic Setup
The most common stereo recording method is using a spaced pair of condenser mics to capture different aspects of the guitar's sound. Depending on your preference, these can be a matched pair or two different mics. Place both mics about 6–9 inches out and up from the guitar. Aim one of your mics toward the 12th fret to capture the highs and detail of the strings. Then, place a second mic halfway between the bridge and the end of the guitar, pointing at the body to capture the lower frequencies and body characteristics. Make sure to angle both mics directly at the guitar, as opposed to angling them inwards towards one another.
Unlike recording in mono, recording in stereo can introduce phase cancellation. Phase cancellation occurs when two microphones capture the same sound at slightly different times or from different positions, causing certain frequencies to interfere destructively. This can result in a thinner, weaker sound. To reduce phase cancellation, apply the “3:1 rule.” Ensure the distance between the two mics is at least three times the distance from each mic to the guitar (so, if your mics are 8 inches away from the guitar, make sure they are at least 24 inches away from each other). Also, make sure your mics are both placed the same distance away from the guitar. If one mic is substantially further away, it will receive the sound later than the other mic and cause issues.
X/Y (Coincident) Mic Setup
If the spaced pair mic setup isn't getting you the exact sound you're looking for, or you want to try something new, an X/Y setup is another great option for stereo recording. In the X/Y setup, two identical microphones are placed so that their capsules are offset at a 90º angle. The typical coincident X/Y setup places the microphones as close together as possible, stacked vertically. One microphone is typically aimed toward the 12th fret, while the other is aimed toward the bridge. Since the mics are stacked, you can move them around together to dial in the sweet spot. Start with the mics placed about 6–9 inches out and up from the guitar and adjust from there.
Since the coincident X/Y setup places the mics as close together as possible, sound arrives at each mic simultaneously, minimizing phase cancellation. X/Y recordings also tend to translate well to mono playback because the two microphones capture similar information. This mono compatibility ensures that the stereo recording retains its character and clarity when played through mono systems like phones and soundbars.
If your guitar has a built-in piezo pickup and you have the extra channels available, you can plug in to the hi-Z (high impedance) input on your audio interface and record along with your mic setup. You can then try blending the extra recording with the main miked recording for some interesting results. Remember, this piezo recording should not replace the miked recording. Built-in pickups can sound thin and harsh, emphasizing the string attack while missing the body resonance and ambient qualities that make acoustic guitars sound full and vibrant. Though, if you need a quick scratch recording, plugging right in to your audio interface takes much less time than setting up and dialing in microphones.
No two rooms, mics, or instruments are the same, so experimenting with mic placement is crucial. While there's no one 'right way' to place your microphones, there are some general rules you can follow while sculpting your sound. For example, moving the mic closer to the guitar will boost the lows and low-mids, while moving the mic further away will emphasize the highs. Facing the mic towards the sound hole will capture a fuller, bass-heavy sound, while facing the mic towards the fretboard will highlight the higher frequencies and capture more subtle details.
The more you record, the more useful these rules will become. As you gain experience, you'll get a feel for when to adjust each variable to capture the exact sound you're looking for. Experiment with different setups, distances, angles, and microphone types, and pay close attention to the results.
Note: All rules aside, make sure to use your ears and best judgement when adjusting your mics. At the end of the day, all that matters is that the recording sounds good in the mix.
When recording electric guitars, there are a ton of different setups you could use depending on what the project requires. Though, for the vast majority of projects, a minimal recording setup is all that's needed. This is made up of an audio interface, a computer, and DAW software—that's it—no need for any fancy analog gear, high-end guitar amps, or a crazy pedalboard. With this minimal setup, you can plug your guitar directly into the hi-Z (high impedance) input on your audio interface and get recording!
If your interface doesn't have a hi-Z input, you can also use a DI (direct input) box before plugging into the interface's line input. The DI box will convert the high impedance signal from your guitar to a low impedance signal suitable for the line input. This impedance matching is crucial. If you instead plugged your electric guitar directly into your interface's line input, it would result in a weak signal, loss of high frequencies, and a duller sound.
Once your guitar is plugged in, dial in your levels with your audio interface's built-in preamp. Then, prep your DAW for recording. Create an audio track and set your interface's hi-Z input as the track's input. Now, you're good-to-go!
You might be thinking, "Shouldn't I record my guitar through an amplifier? Aren't guitars supposed to be amped? Isn't that how a guitar is supposed to sound?"
Recording through a guitar amp captures its specific sound and character, but limits you to the settings you choose at the time. Recording directly into your interface, on the other hand, offers more flexibility. Different amplifiers, pedals, and other effects can be auditioned and tested later to find the perfect fit for the song.
It's worth noting that when working with producers/artists and engineers, they will expect you to send them a clean recording. This gives them the ability to add their own effects, such as pedals and amp emulations, during the production and mixing processes. If you record through a mic'd amp without simultaneously recording a clean alternative, they might not be able to use your take at all, no matter how well you performed. If the color of your amp or guitar pedals doesn't match the rest of their mix, it's not something EQ and room reverbs can easily fix.
For this reason, the best practice is to always record a clean signal directly through a transparent, neutral preamp, like the ones included in most audio interfaces. Any additional recordings you send in could potentially be useful for the producer or engineer, but they are not typically required.
If you want to invest a bit more in your guitar recording setup, you can also try using a signal splitter to record through multiple signal chains at once. You can record your clean signal directly into your audio interface and simultaneously record a distorted signal through a guitar pedal chain and mic'd guitar amp. This somewhat basic form of multitrack recording, also known as multitracking, will sometimes help you skip a step or two during the mixing process. If you know that you're likely to use a certain amp or effect on your guitar, why not go ahead and get it recorded while you're simultaneously recording your clean take?
If you already have a nice guitar rig, or you're looking to build one, multitracking is a great way to set yourself apart during your remote guitar recording gigs. Here's how:
Talk about going the extra mile! Even if they aren't able to use the recording, the producer/artist will appreciate the effort.
Typically, once the producer or engineer receives a clean guitar recording, they'll either reamp the recording (run your clean signal back through a guitar amp and guitar pedal chain, record it through one or more microphones, and blend it back in with your clean recording) or they'll run it through an amp emulator and other effects to make it sound like a legit 'electric guitar' recorded through an amp in a live room. Then, they'll add any additional processing or FX.
If you're producing your own music, you can follow the same reamping process in your home studio for a live-amped sound. First, connect the line out on your audio interface to a reamp box. Then connect the reamp box to your amplifier. After setting the levels on the reamp box so that you have a clear, undistorted signal outputting from your DAW through your amp, you can dial in your amp's settings. Then, once you get the amp tone you're looking for, you can start setting up your microphone (mono) or microphones (stereo) to record.
While there's no single "right" method for miking a guitar amplifier, there are some general ideas you can keep in mind to ensure you get good results. For example, dynamic mics, like the Shure SM57, tend to be the most popular choice for guitar amps. We all like to crank up the volume on our amps—tube amplifiers typically sound best when driven hard. Dynamic mics handle the high sound pressure levels (SPLs) of cranked amps without distortion. Mic placement is another key concept you should keep in mind. Generally, should you start off with your mic a few (3-4) inches away from the grill, pointed directly at the center of the speaker cone for a balanced sound. Moving the mic closer to the speaker will result in a thicker tone with more low-end, while moving it further away will result in a brighter character. You can also point the mic more towards the edge of the speaker to reduce the mids and highs and get a more mellow sound. You'll have to use your ears to pick the right microphone and mic placement for your particular amp and guitar setup.
Once your microphones are placed, connect them to the microphone inputs on your audio interface. Then, you can use the built-in preamp on your interface to set their levels, ensuring that there's no clipping occurring during playback through the amp. Now, your reamping setup is almost complete! All that's left is to prep your DAW for recording. Set up an audio track in your DAW. Then, set the microphone inputs on your interface as the inputs on your audio track. Now, you're ready to record!
Note: When reamping, make sure you use a reamp box—don't plug the line out on your audio interface directly into your amp. Audio interfaces typically output a line-level signal, which is much stronger than the instrument-level signal that guitar amplifiers are designed to receive. Without a reamp box, sending a line-level signal to a guitar amp can result in unwanted distortion and an unmanageable signal level. A reamp box attenuates the line-level signal from the audio interface down to an instrument-level signal that the guitar amplifier expects.
In most cases, electric bass guitars are one of the easiest instruments to record. Bass doesn't typically need to be recorded through an amplifier and can instead be directly recorded through the hi-Z (high impedance) input on an audio interface. This tends to work because modern bass amp emulations can generate a passable amped bass sound. Unlike electric guitar amp emulations, which often struggle to perfectly replicate the nuanced interaction between the guitar and a physical amp, bass amp emulations are highly effective at capturing the full, deep frequencies and dynamic response of a real bass amp. This is because bass tones are generally less reliant on the specific characteristics of the amplifier's distortion and more focused on clean, powerful low-end reproduction, which can be more accurately replicated in the box.
So, unless you're going for a vintage sound, you won't likely be using an amp or any pedals during recording. Most of the time, you can record your bass directly through your audio interface—no DI box, preamp, or signal splitter needed. An amp emulation plugin, as well as any other necessary processing, can be added afterwards to provide the drive and harmonics you'd expect from a live, amped bass.
Since you'll be recording your bass directly into the audio interface, setup is simple. First, plug straight in to the hi-Z input, sometimes also called the instrument input, on your interface. Then, set your levels with the built-in preamp, ensuring that there isn't any clipping. If you don't have an interface with hi-Z inputs, you could also plug in to a DI (Direct Input) box or separate preamplifier, and then connect it to the mic input on your interface.
Once you get your bass connected to your interface and set your levels, all that's left to do is prep your DAW for recording. Set up an audio track in your DAW, and then set your interface's hi-Z input as the track's input. Now you're ready to record!
Synthesizer is one of the most straightforward instruments to record. It's as simple as taking the audio output (mono) or audio outputs (stereo) from your synth and plugging them directly into the line inputs on your audio interface. Then, you just have to set your levels so your synth isn't clipping and record into your DAW. That's it! No need to complicate your recording setup any further.
Note: Make sure you plug your synth in to the line inputs on your audio interface, and not the hi-Z inputs. Hi-Z inputs are designed for high impedance signals, like those from electric guitars and basses. Synthesizers, on the other hand, typically output low impedance, line-level signals.
If you plan on playing your synth live, your recording setup is pretty much good-to-go once you've completed the steps above. All that's left to do is to set up an audio track in your DAW, set your interface's line inputs as the track's inputs, and record.
However, if you plan on programming your synth with MIDI, you have a few more steps to run through before you're ready to record.
First, you need to connect your computer or audio interface to your synth's MIDI input. This will allow you to control your synth from your DAW and add automations to your MIDI track (which you'll set up in the next step) and send them to your synth via MIDI CC's (Control Changes).
Then, you need to set up two different tracks in your DAW:
With this setup, you can simultaneously use the MIDI track to trigger the synth's playback and record the resulting audio into your audio track. After connecting your external MIDI track to your instrument's MIDI channel, set your interface's line inputs as your audio track's inputs, and record.
As discussed, the recording process for synthesizers is fairly simple. Connecting your synth to an audio interface, setting up a track in your DAW, and capturing the audio requires minimal technical expertise. However, the real artistry and complexity lies in two crucial areas: sound design and automation.
Sound design is the process of creating and shaping the unique sounds that your synthesizer produces. This involves a good amount of knob-tweaking—manipulating various parameters such as oscillators, filters, envelopes, and effects on your synth to achieve the desired tone and texture. Here are some key aspects that make up your synth's sound:
In practice: There are no hard and fast sound design rules—there are a bunch of different ways you can get to a 'usable' sound and every synth is different—but there are a few general guidelines you can learn and follow to get to the sounds you're looking for more quickly. For example, typically, sounds based on sawtooth wave will be more sharp and buzzy, while a sound based on a sine wave will more smooth. A sound with a short attack and release will be percussive and staccato, while a sound with a lengthier attack and release will be more drawn out and less abrupt. Make sure you keep these types of guidelines in mind while getting acquainted with each new synth. Every synth's signal chain, envelope, filter, and VCA setup is slightly different, but if you learn to pick the right oscillators, get a feel for setting your envelopes, and learn what each frequency band sounds like and how each filter type affects the sound, you should be able to work with any synth.
Automation is the process of recording changes to parameters over time, allowing you to create dynamic and evolving sounds. Essentially, it lets you tell your DAW which knobs to turn on your synth and when to turn them. It can transform a sequenced, static synth patch into a living, breathing part of your track that ebbs and flows along with the overall arrangement. Here are a few ways you can use automation with your synth:
By automating various parameters like volume and filter cutoff, you can create smooth transitions and dynamic changes in your sound. Keep in mind: your automations should fit in with the overall synth performance, as well as the arrangement of the song.
For instance, gently increasing the filter cutoff during a verse and then sharply opening it up during the chorus can create a dramatic impact that enhances the emotional arc of your track. In contrast, adding a filter sweep to the middle of verse would sound jarring and abrupt, only distracting the listener.
In practice: Try combining multiple automated parameters to achieve complex, layered effects. For example, automating both the filter cutoff and VCA simultaneously can create powerful filter sweeps.
Recording stringed instruments like violins, violas, cellos, and basses requires a bit of experimentation due to the intricate interplay between their vibrating strings, hollow bodies, and wooden construction. These factors combine in the physical recording space to create a complex sonic image, demanding a nuanced approach in the studio. Beyond that, each instrument type has its own unique characteristics and sound, which require thoughtful consideration of mic placement, room acoustics, and recording techniques.
The acoustics of your recording space can significantly affect the sound of your instrument. While a larger room with some reflective surfaces (like wooden floors and walls) is a great way to get a warm and spacious sound, it's not always the one-size-fits-all solution. Here's the nuance: stringed instruments sound best when their sound has space to develop, so distant mic placement in a naturally reverberant room can be ideal in many cases. But, since stringed instruments are relatively quiet, too large of a space with too much reverb has the potential to drown them out and reduce their clarity. Excessive reflections can also make violins and violas sound harsh and bright. On top of that, many styles of music call for a more focused and detailed string sound, which requires fairly dry, closer string recordings. A closer recording with less room reverb will also allow for more control over the sound during production and mixing.
So, when choosing your recording space for strings, consider the needs of your mix. Striking a balance between room reverb and detail will help you capture the sound you're after.
If you're recording from home, your recording space may be prone to background noise due to a lack of soundproofing or standing waves and flutter echoes due to a lack of acoustic treatment. These issues can make it challenging to capture a clean recording. If this is the case, you'll need to place your mics closer to the instrument. But, keep in mind that stringed instruments with higher registers, like violin and viola, can sound especially nasally and brittle when recorded up close, so it's important to allow at least some distance.
Make sure you record in the center of the room and avoid any walls or corners, which can cause unwanted reflections. You can also use a few different tricks to subtly treat your room without making any big investments in your home studio. Adding heavy furniture and blankets, bookshelves full of books, and homemade Rockwool acoustic panels will all help reduce standing waves and flutter echoes. You can also try recording during off-hours like late night or early morning if your recording space is located in a particularly noisy area.
Whether you record in mono or stereo, or use a preamp, EQ, or compressor in front of your audio interface, your signal chain will generally follow the same basic setup. You'll record your instrument with one or more microphones, which will then run into a preamplifier that will be used to amplify the signal to line level (around -12dB to -6dB). Then, the signal will run through the A/D (Analog to Digital) converters on your audio interface and into your DAW for recording.
In the majority of cases, the most simple, flexible, and cost-effective route is to plug your microphones into the XLR inputs on your audio interface and use the built-in preamp to boost the signal. This will result in a clean, uncolored recording that can be processed later by the producer or mixing engineer. By shortening the signal chain, there are fewer chances that something will go wrong during setup.
If you feel confident with your 'knob-turning' skills, you can make some basic adjustments with EQ and tighten up the dynamics with compression on the way in to the audio interface, after the signal has been amplified by the preamp. If you choose to add both EQ and compression, try experimenting with their order in the signal chain to see what sounds best before you start recording. Keep in mind that any effects added to your recording chain will be permanent. If you, the producer, or the engineer need to make any adjustments, or the recording comes out over-compressed or over-EQ'd, you'll have to record another take. So, if you do plan on inserting a compressor or EQ into your chain, make sure to keep the processing minimal.
When working collaboratively, the best practice is to send in a raw recording without any compression or EQ applied on the way in. This will give the producer and mixing engineer the flexibility to apply their own processing and blend the instrument into the song.
Even if you have a high-end vintage EQ or compressor, don't give in to the temptation to add it to all your recordings. No matter how great it sounds on the recording when auditioned individually, once it's added to the mix, there's a high likelihood that the analog coloration imparted by the hardware won't fit in. So unless requested otherwise, it's best to skip any external preamps, EQs, or compressors, and instead plug your mic directly into your audio interface and amplify the signal with the built-in clean preamp.
In terms of mic setup, there are a few different options you can pick between depending on your preferences and project specifications:
The most basic setup for recording stringed instruments is in mono with a single cardioid condenser microphone. Stringed instruments are delicate, so capturing their full tonal range and high-frequency content requires a sensitive mic. For this reason, condenser mics tend to be the most popular choice. However, not all condensers are created equal. Avoid mics with hyped high frequencies, as they can make violins sound harsh. Instead, choose a condenser with a flat response for an accurate representation of the instrument.
Both large and small diaphragm condensers are solid choices, depending on your taste. Large diaphragm condensers are best-suited for capturing the full range of lower-voiced string instruments like cello and bass, thanks to their ability to reproduce lower frequencies accurately. They will also pick up more of the ambience from the room. If you happen to have a ribbon mic lying around, that could be a great choice, too. They exhibit many of the same desirable qualities as condensers but with a more smooth, velvety high end. Dynamic mics are typically avoided when recording strings, due to their lack of high-frequency sensitivity. At the end of the day, your mic selection should depend on what sounds best with your particular instrument and in your recording space.
Most mics perform best at a moderate distance. Still, as previously mentioned, if your recording space is prone to issues or lacks acoustic treatment, try to keep the mic as close to the instrument as possible without causing the proximity effect to arise. If you're a violinist or violist, take care not to subconsciously sway to the beat while you play, especially when close-miking. This can cause undesirable tonal variations as the high-frequency elements of the sound shift toward and away from the microphone.
Positioning your microphone for close-miking is a relatively simple process. Start by placing your mic about 12 inches above and in front of the instrument. Move the mic around until you find the 'sweet spot'—the best-sounding position for your instrument. You can test out different distances, vertical positions, and angles until the playback represents an accurate picture of your instrument's sound. Once you've located the 'sweet spot,' you're ready to record!
In many cases, recording strings in stereo is ideal because it mimics the natural way listeners perceive sound in a live setting. Human ears hear in stereo, allowing us to perceive spatial characteristics and directionality. When a sound typically heard in stereo, such as an acoustic instrument like a violin, is recorded in mono, it can disrupt the illusion of space in a mix. Mono recordings emit from a single point in the stereo field, making their sound feel flat and less immersive. This lack of spatial information can make it obvious that the sound is not naturally filling the space, diminishing the mix's depth and realism. On top of that, even if you add a reverb and stereo-doubling plugin to your mono recording, the true stereo effect is impossible to replicate in-the-box.
This is why stereo recordings are especially important for acoustic instruments. They make the listening experience more lifelike and engaging. They capture not only the direct sound from the instrument but also the room's natural reverb and ambience.
The same advice around mic choice from the section above applies here. Large and small diaphragm condensers are typically the most popular stereo recording picks, and ribbon mics are also a great option. Dynamics are less sensitive than condensers and generally not as well-suited for capturing the delicate high-frequency content of stringed instruments.
The ideal mic placement allows enough space for your instrument's sound to develop. With stereo recording, this space has an even greater impact. It allows early reflections to reach the microphones at slightly different times than the initial sound from the instrument, creating a sense of depth and spaciousness and accurately simulating a live string sound.
This being said, sometimes the space you're recording in is less than ideal (and for certain styles of music, you don't really want to capture the sound of the room). Since this blog is focused on home recording, and many home studios lack acoustic treatment and soundproofing, we'll run through a couple of the most popular setups for close-miking your instrument in stereo:
Spaced Pair (A/B) Mic Setup
The most common stereo recording method is using a spaced pair of cardioid condenser mics to capture different aspects of the instrument's sound. Depending on your preference, these can be a matched pair or two different mics. Place both mics about 12–24 inches above and away from the instrument, with the stereo image centered towards the area where the bow plays. One mic should face over the shoulder of the performer, in the general direction of the body of the instrument to pick up the lower end warmth and mid-range punch. The other mic should face towards the bottom of the fingerboard to capture the highs and detail of the strings. Make sure to angle both mics directly at the instrument, as opposed to angling them inwards towards one another.
Unlike recording in mono, recording in stereo can introduce phase cancellation. Phase cancellation occurs when two microphones capture the same sound at slightly different times or from different positions, causing certain frequencies to interfere destructively. This can result in a thinner, weaker sound. To reduce phase cancellation, apply the “3:1 rule.” Ensure the distance between the two mics is at least three times the distance from each mic to the instrument (so, if your mics are 12 inches away from the violin, make sure they are at least 36 inches away from each other). Also, make sure your mics are both placed the same distance away from the instrument. If one mic is substantially further away, it will receive the sound later than the other mic and cause issues.
X/Y (Coincident) Mic Setup
If the spaced pair mic setup isn't getting you the exact sound you're looking for, or you want to try something new, an X/Y setup is another great option for stereo recording. In the X/Y setup, two identical microphones are placed so that their capsules are offset at a 90º angle. The typical coincident X/Y setup places the microphones as close together as possible, stacked vertically. Place both mics about 12–24 inches above and away from the instrument, with the stereo image centered towards the area where the bow plays. Move the mics around until you find the 'sweet spot.' You can test out different distances, heights, and angles until the playback represents an accurate picture of your instrument's sound. Once you've located the 'sweet spot,' you're ready to record!
Since the coincident X/Y setup places the mics as close together as possible, sound arrives at each mic simultaneously, minimizing phase cancellation. X/Y recordings also tend to translate well to mono playback because the two microphones capture similar information. This mono compatibility ensures that the stereo recording retains its character and clarity when played through mono systems like phones and soundbars.
No two rooms, mics, or instruments are the same, so experimenting with mic placement is crucial. While there's no one 'right way' to place your microphones, there are some general rules you can follow while sculpting your sound. For example, due to the proximity effect, moving the mic closer to the instrument will boost the lows and low-mids, while moving the mic further away will emphasize the highs. When close-miking, facing the mic towards the f-hole will capture a more powerful, boxier, bass-heavy sound, while facing the mic towards the fingerboard will highlight the higher frequencies and capture more subtle details. The further you move the mic away from the instrument, the more ambience and room noise you'll pick up, and vice versa.
The more you record, the more useful these rules will become. As you gain experience, you'll get a feel for when to adjust each variable to capture the exact sound you're looking for. Experiment with different setups, distances, angles, and microphone types, and pay close attention to the results.
Note: All rules aside, make sure to use your ears and best judgement when adjusting your mics. At the end of the day, all that matters is that the recording sounds good in the mix.
Since they both involve blowing air through a tube to make noise, you would think the recording brass and woodwinds would be fairly similar. Think again! Brass and woodwinds, despite their windy connection, each have their own distinct characteristics that should be taken into account during recording. Their differing methods of sound production have major implications for microphone selection and placement, as well as the optimal recording space.
As with any source recorded through a microphone, the acoustic properties of the recording space can significantly impact the sound of brass and woodwind instruments.
Here's a little-known fact about brass instruments... they're loud! This means highly reflective surfaces like bare wooden floors and walls can be problematic for brass recordings. These surfaces can create a harsh and piercing sound. A room with somewhat controlled acoustics, achieved by using soundproofing materials or diffusers, helps to tame excessive reflections and maintain a clean and focused sound. And here's the upside to brass instruments' high sound pressure levels (SPLs): their signal tends not to have any clarity issues, cutting through background noise and room reverb with ease.
Woodwinds are generally quieter and more delicate than brass instruments and are capable of producing higher pitches, which makes them well-suited for smaller, less reflective spaces. Their lack of volume means that too much room reverb can drown them out and reduce their clarity. Also, due to their higher register, excessive reflections can make woodwinds sound thin or shrill. A room with controlled acoustics, where reflections are balanced, and there is minimal unwanted reverb, is ideal. This allows the intricate details of the woodwind's sound to come through clearly.
Just like any other acoustic instrument, brass and woodwinds need space for their sound to develop. This should be taken into consideration during mic placement. But watch out! Rooms with poor acoustics, such as those with too much reverb, standing waves, or flutter echoes, can muddy the sound and make it challenging to capture a clean recording. If you're recording from home, it's unlikely that your room is professionally treated. In this case, you should start from closer mic distances and play louder to minimize background noise and room reverb. However, make sure you experiment with further mic positions and different recording locations before you default to close-miking—your room might sound better than you think, even if it's untreated.
By default, you should record in the center of the room and avoid any walls or corners, which can cause unwanted reflections. You can also use a few different tricks to subtly treat your room without making any big investments in your home studio. Adding heavy furniture and blankets, bookshelves full of books, and homemade Rockwool acoustic panels will all help control room reflections.
Whether you record in mono or stereo, or use a preamp, EQ, or compressor in front of your audio interface, your signal chain will generally follow the same basic setup. You'll record your instrument with one or more microphones, which will then run into a preamplifier that will be used to amplify the signal to line level (around -12dB to -6dB). Then, the signal will run through the A/D (Analog to Digital) converters on your audio interface and into your DAW for recording.
In the majority of cases, the most simple, flexible, and cost-effective route is to plug your microphones into the XLR inputs on your audio interface and use the built-in preamp to boost the signal. This will result in a clean, uncolored recording that can be processed later by the producer or mixing engineer. By shortening the signal chain, there are fewer chances that something will go wrong during setup.
If you feel confident with your 'knob-turning' skills, you can make some basic adjustments with EQ and tighten up the dynamics with compression on the way in to the audio interface, after the signal has been amplified by the preamp. If you choose to add both EQ and compression, try experimenting with their order in the signal chain to see what sounds best before you start recording. Keep in mind that any effects added to your recording chain will be permanent. If you, the producer, or the engineer need to make any adjustments, or the recording comes out over-compressed or over-EQ'd, you'll have to record another take. So, if you do plan on inserting a compressor or EQ into your chain, make sure to keep the processing minimal.
When working collaboratively, the best practice is to send in a raw recording without any compression or EQ applied on the way in. This will give the producer and mixing engineer the flexibility to apply their own processing and blend the instrument into the song.
Even if you have a high-end vintage EQ or compressor, don't give in to the temptation to add it to all your recordings. No matter how great it sounds on the recording when auditioned individually, once it's added to the mix, there's a high likelihood that the analog coloration imparted by the hardware won't fit in. So unless requested otherwise, it's best to skip any external preamps, EQs, or compressors, and instead plug your mic directly into your audio interface and amplify the signal with the built-in clean preamp.
We've explored how the differing construction and sound production methods of brass and woodwinds affect their recording environment. But what about the microphone setup?
Instrument type plays a crucial role here, influencing the choice between mono and stereo, the type of microphone you use, the distance you place it from the instrument, and even the direction it faces. All depend on whether you're dealing with booming brass instruments or delicate woodwinds.
Note: Sax and brass players often move around while playing, especially when they're feeling the music. This can cause issues as the microphone picks up fluctuations in level and sound quality. Increasing the microphone distance can help minimize these variations, and while completely eliminating this issue might be impossible, simply letting the musician know about it beforehand can also make a big difference.
Brass instruments are like loudspeakers, blasting sound straight out of their bells. Because the sound of brass instruments emits from a single point, solo brass performances are more typically recorded in mono. This ensures a clear and focused capture of the instrument's sound without the risk of phase issues that can arise with stereo miking. However, a stereo mic setup can be used to capture the room ambiance and provide a sense of space and depth, especially if the performance is being recorded in a space with pleasing acoustics. Ultimately, the choice between mono and stereo depends on the desired sound and the recording environment.
With brass instruments, mic choice comes down to a balance between handling loud transients and capturing the desired sonic detail. Large-diaphragm condenser microphones will capture the most detail, but they need to be able to handle the high peak SPLs that brass instruments often produce. Dynamic microphones are a solid choice in this regard, consistently handling high SPLs without distortion. Ribbon microphones are also great on brass instruments. They exhibit many of the same desirable qualities as condensers but with a more smooth, velvety high end. However, make sure to place your ribbon mics at a safe distance away from the instrument and use a pop filter to protect their sensitive diaphragms. At the end of the day, the goal is to find a mic with a relatively flat response that with capture an accurate picture of your instrument without any issues like shrill highs or low-end rumble.
Start with your mic (or mics) placed 2 to 5 feet from the instrument, aimed at the bell, and turned slightly off-axis. This off-axis positioning helps tame some of the harshness that can come from directly facing the bell, while still capturing the instrument's core sound.
Experimentation with distance is also crucial. The closer you place the microphone, the brighter and more detailed the sound will be, useful for capturing the attack and presence of the instrument. Conversely, moving the microphone further away or turning it more off-axis results in a warmer and darker tone, which can be useful for blending multiple brass instruments together or creating a more mellow character. By finding the sweet spot between distance and microphone direction, you can tailor your mic setup to achieve the perfect brass sound for your recording. Be careful not to place microphones too close to brass instruments. It can wreak havoc on their tonal balance, exaggerating certain frequencies while simultaneously burying others—this is far from easy to fix with processing.
Instead of emitting from a single point like brass instruments, woodwinds sing from their entire bodies. This has major implications for microphone placement. Unlike brass, where you can aim mics directly at the bell, woodwinds need mic setups that can "hear" the whole instrument to capture the full picture of their tone. For this reason, solo woodwind performances tend to be recorded with a stereo mic setup more often than brass. By aiming at the space around the instrument instead of directly at it, this approach does a better job at capturing the full range of sound, providing a more accurate listening experience. A stereo setup also captures the room ambiance, adding depth and space to the recording. However, a mono setup can be used instead for a more focused and direct sound, depending on the needs of the track and the mix.
For woodwinds, large diaphragm condensers tend to be the go-to choice due to their ability to capture clear high-end detail. Make sure the mic has a flat frequency response, as hyped highs or high-mids can make woodwinds sound shrill. Ribbon mics can also work well and can be positioned more closely to woodwinds than to brass instruments without causing any damage to their diaphragms. Since woodwinds are quieter than brass instruments, dynamic mics are generally unnecessary and tend to miss some of the intricacies and high-end content of the sound.
Unlike brass instruments with their powerful, directional sound, clarinets and similar instruments project their high frequencies in a beam from the bell, while the lower tones radiate more openly. To capture a balanced and natural clarinet sound, the microphone placement should allow the instrument's high frequencies to reflect off the floor and blend with the lower tones before they reach the mics. Start with your mics placed about 2 to 4 feet out in front, roughly level with the center the instrument. Instead of pointing directly at the bell, aim slightly upwards towards the holes on the lower part of the instrument's body. This will give the instrument's sound enough space to develop and blend together. Aiming the mic at the bell, on the other hand, will capture a disproportionate level of high frequencies, resulting in a shrill, weak sound.
Like with clarinets, when recording saxophone, your microphone placement needs to allow the more directional, powerful highs to blend with the lower tones that radiate from the instrument's body before they reach the mics. The only major difference in setup will be the angle of the microphones, since the saxophone's bell faces upwards instead of downwards. Place your mics about 2 to 4 feet up and in front, roughly level with the center the instrument.
Flutes require a slightly different approach due to their horizontal playing position. Place your microphones anywhere from 1 to 3 feet away, slightly above and about half way along the length of the instrument.
No two rooms, mics, or instruments are the same, so experimenting with mic placement is crucial. While there's no one 'right way' to place your microphones, there are some general rules you can follow while sculpting your sound. For example, due to the proximity effect, moving the mic closer to the instrument will boost the lows and low-mids, while moving the mic further away will emphasize the highs. Angling the microphone toward the instrument's bell will result in a crisp, focused, upfront sound. Alternatively, angling it away from the bell will result in a more mellow, laid-back character.
The more you record, the more useful these rules will become. As you gain experience, you'll get a feel for when to adjust each variable to capture the exact sound you're looking for. Experiment with different setups, distances, angles, and microphone types, and pay close attention to the results.
Note: All rules aside, make sure to use your ears and best judgement when adjusting your mics. At the end of the day, all that matters is that the recording sounds good in the mix.
Your piano's sound depends on more than just the keys you play—it's shaped by the space it's recorded in. Accordingly, capturing the nuanced character of your piano in a less-than-ideal space presents a distinct set of challenges. But, as long you follow a few best practices around your recording space, signal chain setup, and mic choice and placement, you'll be sounding like a pro in no time.
For acoustic instruments, like grand and upright pianos, you'll typically want to record in the largest room available, as small spaces can cause a lot of unwanted reflections and sound unnatural at times. Try to position the piano as close as you can to the center of the room and avoid recording in corners or next to walls to ensure your signal remains balanced and unaffected by room reflections.
Sometimes, the recording space is 'not-so-great'. It could be located in a noisy area, or prone to excessive reverb, bass buildup, or harsh highs. Luckily, there are a few tricks you can use to subtly treat your room without making any big investments in your home studio. Adding heavy furniture and blankets, bookshelves full of books, and homemade Rockwool acoustic panels will all help reduce harsh mids and highs and tame excessive reverb. You can also try recording during off-hours like late night or early morning if your recording space is in a busy area.
If all else fails, you can always move your mic closer to the piano. This will help increase your signal-to-noise ratio, cutting down on unwanted background noise and reverb. Even when close-miking, you should try to leave at least some distance between the mic and piano to ensure the sound has space to develop.
Whether you record in mono or stereo, or use a preamp, EQ, or compressor in front of your audio interface, your signal chain will generally follow the same basic setup. You'll record your piano with one or more microphones, which will then run into a preamplifier that will be used to amplify the signal to line level (around -12dB to -6dB). Then, the signal will run through the A/D (Analog to Digital) converters on your audio interface and into your DAW for recording.
In the majority of cases, the most simple, flexible, and cost-effective route is to plug your microphones into the XLR inputs on your audio interface and use the built-in preamp to boost the signal. This will result in a clean, uncolored recording that can be processed later by the producer or mixing engineer. By shortening the signal chain, there are fewer chances that something will go wrong during setup.
If you feel confident with your 'knob-turning' skills, you can make some basic adjustments with EQ and tighten up the dynamics with compression on the way in to the audio interface, after the signal has been amplified by the preamp. If you choose to add both EQ and compression, try experimenting with their order in the signal chain to see what sounds best before you start recording. Keep in mind that any effects added to your recording chain will be permanent. If you, the producer, or the engineer need to make any adjustments, or the recording comes out over-compressed or over-EQ'd, you'll have to record another take. So, if you do plan on inserting a compressor or EQ into your chain, make sure to keep the processing minimal.
When working collaboratively, the best practice is to send in a raw recording without any compression or EQ applied on the way in. This will give the producer and mixing engineer the flexibility to apply their own processing and blend the instrument into the song.
Even if you have a high-end vintage EQ or compressor, don't give in to the temptation to add it to all your recordings. No matter how great it sounds on the recording when auditioned individually, once it's added to the mix, there's a high likelihood that the analog coloration imparted by the hardware won't fit in. So unless requested otherwise, it's best to skip any external preamps, EQs, or compressors, and instead plug your mic directly into your audio interface and amplify the signal with the built-in clean preamp.
Pianos produce a wide range of sounds, from the low rumble of a bass note (around 27.5 Hz) to the bright sparkle of a high note (around 4186 Hz). Dynamic mics can struggle to capture the piano's high frequencies, resulting in a muffled sound (with some exceptions). Condenser and ribbon mics, on the other hand, are generally better suited for pianos because they can capture the full frequency spectrum.
This being said, you can get great results recording piano with a huge variety of different mic setups—two large diaphragm or small diaphragm condenser mics, a single small diaphragm omnidirectional condenser mic, a pair of ribbon mics combined with a dynamic mic—at the end of the day, the exact setup isn’t that important, as long as you like the way the results sound on your song. Here are some guidelines you can follow to get to a good starting point and dial in your mic setup more quickly:
No two rooms, mics, or instruments are the same, so experimenting with mic placement is crucial. While there's no one 'right way' to place your microphones, there are some general rules you can follow while sculpting your sound. For example, placing the mic outside of the piano will capture a fuller, more open sound, while placing the mic inside the rim of the piano will highlight the higher frequencies and attack of the notes. Brightness can also be increased by moving the mic closer to the piano's hammers.
The more you record, the more useful these rules will become. As you gain experience, you'll get a feel for when to adjust each variable to capture the exact sound you're looking for. Experiment with different setups, distances, angles, and microphone types, and pay close attention to the results.
Note: All rules aside, make sure to use your ears and best judgement when adjusting your mics. At the end of the day, all that matters is that the recording sounds good in the mix.
Recording on your Wurlitzer or your Rhodes? There's no one right way to record electric piano—mono vs. stereo, direct in vs.a miked-up guitar amplifier, etc.—but there are some best practices you can follow to ensure you end up with high quality recordings. Depending on your exact instrument, in terms of audio outputs, your piano will have either:
Much like with electric guitars, if your electric piano has a line out or line outs, it is typically best to record directly into an audio interface or clean preamp and get a clean recording of your instrument. If you'd like, you can split your signal and record through a miked-up amplifier and/or guitar pedals, as well, but as long as you also get a clean recording, you'll be in the clear if you want to remove the effects down the line. When working collaboratively, producers and engineers expect you to send them a clean version first and foremost, as well as any effected versions of the recording they may have requested.
Some older electric pianos like the Wurlitzer 140B don't have line outs and instead have built-in speakers. In this case, you'll need to use a microphone or a pair of microphones, depending on whether you want a mono or stereo recording. Like their acoustic counterparts, electric pianos produce a wide range of sounds, some spanning over 7 octaves. So, condenser mics tend to be a solid choice for capturing the full range of your instrument. But, if you're miking your piano's built-in speaker, many of which tend to have tube amps that need to be driven hard to sound their best, you'll likely want a dynamic microphone instead of a condenser (in most cases). Although dynamic mics may not do as good a job at capturing your piano's high frequencies, they can handle louder signals from the built-in amp without clipping or causing feedback. This being said, as long as you gain stage your preamp correctly and you're able to keep your mic far enough away from your piano's speaker, you shouldn't experience any problems if you choose to record with a condenser mic, instead.
Your electric piano may have been modified to include both line outs and built-in speakers. In this case, it can't hurt to mic up the speaker and connect the line outs to your interface to record both signals simultaneously. This will give you more flexibility throughout the mixing process. You, or the producer or mixing engineer, can choose between each recording or blend both together, depending on what's needed for the mix.
This advice should provide you with some general guidelines you can follow during mic setup and recording. It's meant to be a starting point. You'll have to experiment to get the optimal setup for your unique room, instruments, mics, and preamps. Once you get your setup dialed in, keep it that way, if you have the mics to spare. No need to waste time on mic placement or gain staging.